Salem's Sleepy Sister to the East
Go trick-or-retreating in Marblehead, Massachusetts
In the last decade, I’ve visited Salem, Massachusetts four times. As a kid, the flawless 1993 film Hocus Pocus painted a formative picture of the town for me.
I’m delighted to report that Salem lives up to its cinematic reputation; it invites you to embrace your weird in such freeing ways. It’s also pedestrian friendly. Which means tons of people come to let down their manes and stretch their bat wings, especially during the weirdest and gloriest of months, October.
We’re fast approaching Salem’s big month, so I’m sharing two retreat zones for when the cackling crowds get too loud, only 3.5 miles away in Marblehead, Massachusetts.
Incorporated in 1649, Marblehead is misty, quaint, and wealthy. It has the best secondhand store I’ve ever been to: Magic Hat Thrift Shop. The town is full of snaking streets, and I’m convinced they reroute themselves overnight.
In Hocus Pocus, Max Dennison bikes up and down these twisty roads through one of Marblehead’s historic graveyards, Old Burial Hill, where bullies Jay and Ice are hiding (making?) out. Either way, everyone seems startled, and the bullies steal Max’s shoes. It was a rough day for Max, and I get why he CAN’T BELIEVE his parents made him move here. But perhaps he just needed a fresh lobster roll to put things in perspective?
Retreat Zone 1: Old Burial Hill, Fountain Park, and Little Harbor Lobster Company
Old Burial Hill Cemetery
Established in 1638 (what the sign says) or 1648 (what the website says), Old Burial Hill Cemetery is an elevated graveyard, literally and figuratively. It’s the perfect place to bring a book and blanket, peruse skull headstone art, and pay your respects to Marblehead local Wilmot Redd, a victim of the Salem Witch Trials.
Enter at intersection of Orne and Pond Streets (stairs) or at Redd’s Pond
Fountain Park
On the other side of the Orne-Pond intersection, you can climb a fair amount of steps to Fountain Park, a former Revolutionary War fort overlooking Marblehead Harbor and the Salem Sound. The reward is this vista and a pavilion with benches.
Little Harbor Lobster Company
Little Harbor Lobster Company is just 450 feet away from Fountain Park. While I have walked my hot-to-go order from Little Harbor back to Fountain Park, I don’t necessarily recommend it. Orne Street is narrow and curved, making visibility poor for drivers. Instead, find parking along Beacon Street, follow the chalkboard, and grab a picnic table or lobster cage throne near the shop!
If you’re lucky, a lobsterman on break will turn to you, gesture out to sea, and affectionately decree “Sommmmmme tiiide.”
Little Harbor Lobster Company
3 Beacon Street
Closed Mondays
Retreat Zone 2: Green & Harris/Mugford Street Cemeteries and The Little Store Pastaria
Green Street Cemetery
Green Street Cemetery is less than 1 mile from Old Burial Hill. It’s where I first noticed a new-to-me type of burial structure: long mounds with front doors and grass canopies. Earthen homes for the dead.
The crows are talkative here.
Enter on Elm Street
Harris/Mugford Street Cemeteries
Harris Street and Mugford Street Cemeteries are The Secret Garden of graveyards. The shared, tucked-away knoll is lush and quiet. I gasped when I got a glimpse of the ivy-caked retaining wall.
The cemeteries border the Unitarian Universalist Church of Marblehead, a church-held property since 1716. The grave markers are delicate, set together like thin slate roof tiles. Some of them seem abnormally well arranged, and that’s because they are. Around 1960, the church dug up and moved some congregant graves to build a bigger space. Then, they rearranged the remaining headstones.
Enter on Harris Street
The Little Store Pastaria
The Little Store Pastaria is a 5 minute walk from Green and Harris/Mugford Street Cemeteries; all three locations are situated along one infinity loop-shaped route.
I can wholeheartedly vouch for the bread basket, dipping oil, and Little Store Gnocchi (mushrooms, homemade alfredo sauce, truffle oil). They also gave me a wine glass for my Diet Coke. A 10/10 dining experience.
The Little Store Pastaria
9 Green Street
Dinner only, BYOB
Call for reservations
Also, send to Grace
Little wine glass for your Diet Coke!